Still at home. Mood bad. Tummy good.

So Shelter-in-Place they say. Okey dokey. Shouldn't be too much of a problem. After all, I work in my home, obviously live in my home, one of my main hobbies is cooking, which I do in my home, my family is here with me... Should be a breeze then, right? Hmmm... I spend a lot of time on Facebook (more than anyone should, probably), and it is full of people who seem to be coping fabulously with this new (ab)normal. They are baking sourdough for the first time, enjoying the flowers in their gardens, bonding with their children over games of monopoly. I'd love to say it has been idyllic in this house, but I'd be lying.

The realization that nearly half of our family of five has an underlying condition making them high risk if they get Covid-19 meant that I had to close my business temporarily, so that was the first kicker. Then there's homeschooling. Let's just say we are all at home. Not so much of the school going on for my youngest, at least not without a fight. Some kids need more support, and they don't want it from their parents. It has indeed been fabulous having my older two kids at home again, and unexpected, since you kind of anticipate that once they leave for college, time spent at home with a full house will be much more limited. My daughter was a godsend, with pilates workouts and long walks with company, something I don't often get (no offense, the dogs are great company, but their conversation often lacks depth and breadth). My eldest son has willingly been his brother's go-to when he needs help with school work, and kept his cool when the latter was less than grateful for his input. And my dogs at least, seem to love having us at home more, and having those long walks. But then I managed to drop a Costco-sized jar of jam on my foot and broke my toe, so I have been unable to walk them or exercise for the last week.

The purpose of this long wordy litany of SIP-related mostly-woes is to say that I'm NOT OK with this. It isn't all tickety-boo. And there are days when it feels like it isn't worth getting out of bed, let alone making gourmet meals or playing monopoly (Truth be told, I would be happy to pay money never to have to play monopoly ever again). I have been cooking like a maniac, even if not for work, but not posting about it, because frankly, posting a picture of a delicious-looking meal has often seemed misleading for me - it implies in some way that "Everything is great over here! Look at this amazing polenta! It is proof that we are thriving in isolation!" Fortunately I have friends who remind me (even if they can only do so virtually) that it is OK NOT TO BE OK. And I am so thankful for that.

And yet here I am, posting a blog post about a meal that was, yes, delicious. Please take from this what you will - eating this made me happy in my tummy for a while. It didn't solve the world's problems, or any of mine, or indeed make me grateful for SIP-bonding-family-time-fabulousness. Nope. Not in the least. But it was tasty, I made it, and they all ate it. That made me OK for a bit, between the not OK bits. My hope is that it may do the same for you, and your tummy.

Green Risotto With Hazelnut Pesto and Creamy Feta
Serves 5

For the green puree:
3 oz Lacinato kale (stalks removed)
3 oz fresh parsley (one large bunch)
3 oz baby spinach
1/2 cup olive oil

For the hazelnut pesto:
6oz hazelnuts
6 TBSP grated parmesan
5 TBSP olive oil
1/2 tsp sesame oil
2 tsp red wine vinegar

For the risotto:
olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
12 oz risotto rice (I used Arborio)
2/3 cup dry white wine
900 ml vegetable stock
6 oz feta
6 TBSP heavy cream
3oz butter
juice of one lemon

lemon wedges and chopped parsley to serve

1. Heat the oven to 350F (180C), and place the hazelnuts in a single layer in a small baking tray. Bake for 10 minutes by which time they should be turning golden and fragrant. Set aside to cool slightly.
2. Meanwhile bring a pan of water to the boil, then add the kale leaves and blanche for 3 minutes, before draining and rinsing with cold water to cool them enough to handle.
3. Place the kale leaves, spinach and parsley in a food processor with the olive oil and plenty of salt and pepper and whizz until smooth.
4. Rinse out the food processor and then put the hazelnuts, olive oil, sesame oil and red wine vinegar into the bowl and whizz them until finely chopped. Add the parmesan and continue to process until the pesto has the consistency you want.
Note that all the above steps can be done ahead of time, just store the two pestos in the fridge until you are ready to cook the final meal.
5. For the risotto, place the stock in a small saucepan with a lid on the stove, and heat until simmering, then leave on low heat to remain hot.
6. Heat the olive oil in a separate larger saucepan, then saute the onions over medium heat until soft, and just starting to brown. Add the garlic and saute for a further minute.
7. Stir in the rice until the grains are coated in oil, and then pour in the white wine. Let the mixture bubble until the wine is almost all evaporated, then add a couple of ladles of stock.
8. Keep the risotto bubbling away on a low heat, adding more stock whenever it dries out, until the rice is tender and slightly al dente.
9. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mash the feta with the heavy cream.
10. As soon as the rice is cooked, season the risotto generously with salt and pepper, and stir in the green puree. Once it is combined, stir in the butter to give the risotto a shine. Taste and see if more seasoning is needed.
11. Serve in bowls with the hazelnut pesto dotted over the top, and a dollop of feta. Sprinkle with extra parsley.

Yoo-hoo, Fall? Where are you?

I was duped this week by the calendar. September 21st, it said. Fall equinox, it bragged. Yeah, well we live in California, and it is in the high 80s here today. Nevertheless, I had shopped for a lovely soupy chili, so last night, that is what we ate (whilst sitting in the direct flow of the a/c vent). It may not have been the most climatologically appropriate meal to be supping on, but it was pretty delicious, we all agreed (whilst mopping sweat from our brows with the odd napkin). Truth be told, I don't want to sound ungrateful, but we love nothing more than a sizable bowl of spoonable chili in this house, so the darker evenings and lower temperatures cannot come soon enough, particularly since the current Fahrenheit spikes have Californians worrying about wildfires once again.

So, if you too are holding off packing away your shorts and bikinis for a while, put this recipe in your back pocket for now, but be sure to bring it out again when the temps start to fall. If however, you live somewhere normal, with more predictable seasons, it'd definitely worth adding to the rotation now.

Quinoa Chili Soup
Serves 5

1 tsp canola oil
1 yellow onion, chopped
2 celery stalks, chopped into 1/4" chunks
3 carrots, peeled and chopped into 1/4" chunks
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 green jalapeños, seeded and finely chopped
3 1/2 cups water
1 280z can fire-roasted diced tomatoes
1 15 oz can black beans, drained and rinsed
2 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp chili powder
2 tsp fine sea salt
1/2 cup uncooked white quinoa
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro (coriander leaves)
1/2 tsp ground black pepper
To serve: extra chopped cilantro, finely chopped green onions, chopped fresh tomatoes, chopped avocado, sour cream, shredded cheddar, wedges of lime for squeezing over

1. In a large Dutch oven or soup pan, warm the oil over a medium heat, and then saute the onion, carrot, garlic, jalapeño and celery for about 8 minutes, until the onion is translucent and the carrots are starting to soften.
2. Add the water, tomatoes, black beans, cumin, salt, chili powder, quinoa, black pepper and cilantro and stir to combine. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover and let the soup simmer for about 15 minutes until the quinoa and the carrots are tender.
3. Remove two ladlefuls of the soup and blend until smooth in a blender or food processor, then stir back into the rest of the soup. This magically makes it thicker and creamy :-)
4. Serve with toppings, and maybe some bread to wipe the bowl clean.

Pilaf perfection

I am a huge fan of sauciness. Of all kinds.

The only kind I feel it is appropriate to speak of here is, however, dinner dishes that rely on a rich flavorful sauce. It is the utmost in comfort food to me. Although I am not a suspicious person by nature...oh OK, I am a suspicious person by nature - I'm British, and we have cynicism in our genes... I am automatically a tad suspicious of recipes for dishes that seem dry. My preconceived position is that they can't possibly be as flavorful, and I, and my taste buds, will be disappointed. However, I am not so arrogant as not to admit that exceptions do exist (I'm still more than 50% right, really I am), and the recipe below is for one of those exceptions. Don't be steered away by the long list of spices - they are worthy additions to your spice cupboard, and impart a flavor to this dish that is amazing in its richness. And that despite the lack of sauce!

I served the pilaf here topped with spiced carrots (recipe below) and with some raita on the side - just to add a smidgen of moisture to the dish. However, for those members of my family who seem to crave protein and view all vegetarian dishes with suspicion, I suggest topping it with a piece of roasted salmon, sprinkled with some similar spices.

Caramelized Onion and Zucchini Pilaf
(adapted from Olive, a British cooking magazine)
Serves 4

12 oz white basmati rice
2 oz unsalted butter
2 yellow onions, finely sliced
2 tsp black/brown mustard seeds
2 tsp cumin seeds
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 zucchini, coarsely shredded
1 2" piece ginger root, finely shredded
2 Roma tomatoes, diced
1 cinnamon stick, broken in half
2 cardamom pods
2 strips of lemon zest pared from 1 lemon
20 fl oz (600ml) vegetable broth
1/3 cup mint leaves, chopped
1/3 cup flat leaf parsley, chopped

1. Rinse the rise a few times in cold water, by submerging it in a large bowl of water and swishing it around, then draining. Continue to do so, until the water remains clear when the rice is swished around. Drain well.
2. Melt the butter in a large Dutch oven with a lid over a medium-high heat, and saute the onions with a pinch of salt for 20 minutes, stirring regularly. By this point, they should be a lovely golden brown color. Scoop 1/3 of them out  into a bowl and set aside.
3. Add the seeds to the pan, and stir into the remaining onions, util they start to give up a delicious aroma, then tip in the garlic, ginger and shredded zucchini, and stir to combine.
4. Add the tomatoes, remaining spices, lemon zest strips and rice and mix well until the rice grains are coated.
5. Pour in the vegetable broth and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a nice rolling boil, then reduce the heat to low, put some foil over the pan, followed by the lid (makes a nice firm seal, better than with the lid alone) and simmer gently for 10 minutes without removing the lid. Then remove from the heat, and again, without removing the lid, let it sit and steam for another 10 minutes.
6. Gently fork through the herbs and then serve topped with the reserved onions, some spiced carrots (recipe below) or salmon and some raita on the side (recipe below).


Spiced Carrots

2 lbs carrots cut into 2" pieces (split the fat ones lengthwise too)
3 TBSP canola oil
1/2 tsp salt
3/4 tsp ground coriander
3/4 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp ground black pepper
1/4 tsp chili powder
1/4 tsp paprika
1/4 tsp ground ginger
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon

1. Preheat oven to 400F (200C).
2. Toss the carrots in the oil, then mix together the spices and mix into the carrots.
3. Spread on a roasting tin, coated with canola oil spray.
4. Roast in oven for 25-30 minutes until tender


Raita
adapted from Epicurious.com

1 cup fat free Greek yoghurt
1 cup chopped hothouse cucumber or Persian cucumber
4 TBSP chopped fresh cilantro (coriander leaves)
1 TBSP finely chopped green/spring onions
1/2 tsp ground coriander
1/2 tsp ground cumin

1. Mix ingredients together well. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
2. Chill until ready to serve.

Take that Take Out!

Thai is one of our go-to's when we can't be bothered to cook (yes, it happens to us all) and we are opting to get take-out. There is nothing I love more than a Green Curry or a Pad Thai. However, I rarely opt for the latter, as it so often contains shrimp (sorry, but no, thank you!). And, since two of our family are now completely vegetarian, and one nearly vegetarian, chicken is a no-no too. However, I found a fabulous recipe for making Pad Thai at home from Pinch of Yum and it's already become a favorite around here, with a few tweaks for good measure. There is just the right amount of spice for my pickier eaters but if you want a bit more of a kick, add some chili flakes, or substitute the  sweet chile sauce for sriracha. And, yes if you insist, you could stir in some shrimp, just not in my presence!

Mixed Vegetable Pad Thai
Serves 4

10 oz noodles (I used Japanese Buckwheat noodles, but brown rice noodles would be more authentic)
2 zucchini/courgettes, cut into matchsticks
1 large red bell pepper, chopped into sticks
3 large carrots, cut into fine matchsticks
1 large yellow onion, sliced
2 TBSP canola oil
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup chopped fresh cilantro and basil
1/4 cup chopped green onions
1/2 cup chopped roasted peanuts

For the sauce:
4 TBSP fish sauce
6 TBSP brown sugar
6 TBSP vegetable broth
4 TBSP white vinegar
4 TBSP soy sauce
2 tsp sweet chile sauce

1. Whisk together all the sauce ingredients until the sugar is dissolved.
2. Heat 1 TBSP oil in  large wok and stir fry the vegetables for 5-10 minutes (it depends on how finely they are sliced - to see if they are OK, test a piece of carrot as this takes the longest to get tender).
3. In the meantime, cook the noodles as per the instructions, then drain fully.
3. Transfer the veggies to a bowl and set aside. In the same wok, heat another TBSP of oil and add the cooked noodles to the pan. Use some tongs to stir them around so they become coated with the oil. Then add about 1/2 of the sauce and toss to coat the noodles.
4. Once the sauce is beginning to thicken and coat the noodles, make a space in the nest of noodles, and tip in the beaten eggs. Leave them for warm for about 20 seconds and then toss to coat the noodles. Everything should start getting deliciously sticky at this point.
5. Add the vegetables and remaining sauce into the wok, and stir to combine. Once it has all heated through, you are ready to serve.
6. Serve topped with green onions, peanuts and fresh herbs.

If strata be the food of love...

Sorry Shakespeare, but it's got to be done:

If strata be the food of love,
Play on!
Give me excess of it,
That surfeiting, the appetite may sicken and so die...

I'm pretty sure that is a directly quotation from my dear friend Will. Or, failing that, I believe strongly that, if he had ever had strata, he probably had it in mind when writing these opening lines to Twelfth Night. I'm not sure if he was also aware that, students of this play would still be able to quote the opening page of Twelfth Night a full 31 years after having had to study it for exams... if he was aware of that, he would probably not have begrudged them a large and cheesy helping of strata.

And this strata is comfort food extraordinaire, which as you know, is my preferred form of excess. Moreover, it contains vegetables, so boom. And its vegetarian... But no, it's not vegan or low carb. Seriously, if you are a regular on my blog, what do you expect!

And one final plea - don't save me for brunch. Sadly, brunch is a once-every-so-often weekend occurrence, which, although delicious and satisfying, is all too rare. Pair this beauty with a salad, and this is dinner, baby. And delicious dinner at that.

Kale, Mushroom and Gouda Strata
Serves 8-10

1 large bunch laminate/Scotch kale, destemmed and chopped
1 large loaf ciabatta, thinly sliced
4 TBSP butter
1 red onion, thinly sliced
4 oz cremini mushrooms, sliced
olive oil
1 tsp cumin seeds
6 oz smoked gouda cheese, shredded
10 eggs
4 cups milk
grated fresh nutmeg

1. Spread the butter on the ciabatta slices. Grease a 9"x13" pan/dish with cooking spray and line with one layer of buttered bread slices.
2. Fry the onions and mushrooms in olive oil for five minutes over medium heat until softened. Add cumin seeds and kale, stirring to combine. Continue to saute until the kale is softened.
3. Spread the vegetable mixture over the bread slices in the pan, then sprinkle over half the shredded gouda and season with salt and pepper.
4. Layer over remaining bread slices and sprinkle over the remaining half of the cheese.
5. Beat the eggs with the milk and nutmeg and pour slowly over the dish.
6. Press lightly on the topmost bread slices to make sure they come into contact with the egg mixture, and then leave for at least 1 hour, or even overnight. Preheat oven to 375F (190C).
7. Bake for 40 minutes or until risen, golden and crispy on top. If the top browns too quickly, and the middle is still liquid with uncooked eggs, then cover with foil for remaining baking time, until middle is firmer.

Wardrobe vs Taste Buds: Round 1!

If you have read any of my favorite recipes on this blog, then you know by now that I love nothing better than a fragrant, creamy, rich sauce. However, since we had a fabulous gelato-filled vacation in Italy but a few weeks ago, and all of the clothes my wardrobe seems to have very weirdly shrunk, my waistline's needs are not always in agreement with my culinary desires. When the two do coincide, however, it is a cause for celebration. And yes, some of those moments of confluence do involve salads. But if they all did, it would make my taste buds very sad, as they still want their fix of creamy richness, even if not every day. In this case, the creaminess of the sauce comes from pureeing the vegetable base, not from any cream, cheese or other deliciousness. And the richness of flavor comes from a great combination of spices, which add a hint of heat, but nothing that will send the younger members of the family fleeing from the dinner table. So my waistline is none the thicker, and my taste buds are happy: basically, this one is a winner. Now if someone could please wake up to society's needs and make adult clothes with those adjustable waistbands they put in children's clothes, I'd be a happy woman...

Masala Chickpeas and Greens
serves 3

For the chickpeas:
2 TBSP coconut oil
2 yellow onions, sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 medium carrot, cut into 1/2" slices
1 red bell pepper chopped
1 1/2 tsp grated fresh ginger
1 tsp salt
1 tsp garam masala
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp paprika
2 1/2 cups water
1 15oz can chickpeas/garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed

For the quinoa:
1/2 cup quinoa
1 1/4 cups water
1 TBSP soy sauce

For the kale:
olive oil
1 bunch Scotch (curly) kale, destemmed and chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
salt and pepper

1/4 cup chopped cashew nuts
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro (coriander leaves)

1. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat, and then add the onions, garlic and ginger. Saute until the onions are soft and translucent, reducing the heat if they start to brown too much.
2. Add the carrots and bell pepper and continue to cook until they start to soften.
3. Add the spices and stir to combine until they become fragrant. Then add the water and stir to combine.
4. Bring to the boil, cover, reduce heat to low and simmer for about 35 minutes by which point all the vegetables should be soft.
5. Place the vegetable mixture in a blender and puree until smooth. Then pour this back into the skillet and add the chickpeas.
6. While that mixture is heating through, prepare the quinoa by putting everything in a saucepan, bringing to the boil, covering, reducing heat and simmering for 15 minutes. Drain if any liquid remains.
7. Heat the olive oil in another skillet and saute the garlic and kale for 10 minutes until the kale is softened. If it starts to stick/burn, add a little water or stock. Season with salt and pepper.
8. Serve by putting some quinoa in each bowl, followed by some kale, putting the chickpea mixture on top. Sprinkle with cashews, parsley and cilantro.

It doesn't get greener than this

Say the word 'vegan' in this house, and you are more than likely going to met with a look of horror, not to mention a reluctance to venture anywhere close to the dinner table. Basically, we like cheese. Whether it's your English mature cheddar, your French Triple Cream Brie, your Dutch Gouda, Italian Pecorino Romano or Mexican cotija, we'll take seconds of that, thank you very much. Youngest son will eat the shredded variety out of the bag in handfuls which, yes, I know is kind of disgusting. We have even been in the US long enough to consider American cheese a real food, even if we eschew it in favor of its far superior European cousins. Vegan is a scary thought, and therefore, most of the vegetarian dishes that I indulge in tend to have cheese as an ingredient, even if it is but a sprinkling of parmesan at serving time.

However, nothing ventured, nothing gained, and knowing that we love coconut milk-based curry sauces in general, I thought this recipe was worth a try, and WOWSERS! This one is a keeper, lack of cheese notwithstanding. No, we are not going to stop raiding the Cotswold and Camembert selections at Trader Joe's, nor quit the occasional expensive nip into Whole Foods for some CowGirl Creamery deliciousness. But now and again, we will go cheese-free, and still end up smiling through our dinner.

Ginger Coconut Green Spaghetti
adapted from Produceonparade.com
Serves 5

16oz wholewheat spaghetti or linguine
olive oil
4 garlic cloves, minced
3 TBSP fresh ginger, grated
1 15oz can coconut milk (lite works fine, if you want to cut the fat)
2 tsp sugar
2 tsp lemon juice
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp ground black pepper
1 bunch green swiss chard, stems removed and roughly chopped
3 handfuls fresh baby spinach
1/3 cup fresh basil leaves
lemon wedges to serve

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Add the spaghetti/linguine and cook according to directions, then drain and return to the pan.
2. In a large saute/frying pan, cook the garlic and ginger in some olive oil for a couple of minutes, stirring constantly, until fragrant but not yet sticking to the pan.
3. Add coconut milk, sugar, lemon juice, salt and pepper and stir to combine. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat to a simmer. Add the chard and spinach and mix to coat.
4. Put a lid on and simmer for about 5 minutes until the greens are all wilted.
5. Pour the mixture into a blender or food processor, add the basil leaves and whizz until smooth. Check the seasoning and add more salt and pepper if desired.
6. Pour over the cooked pasta and stir to coat the pasta.
7. Serve in bowls with a lemon wedge to squeeze over the top.